Via Ferrata and Rock Climbing Safari in the Dolomites
Eight days of adventure across the Rosengarten and Sella with Mike and Joost
Mike and Joost on the summit of Roda di Vael (Rotwand), after the via ferrata Masarè and Roda
Before heading into the Dolomites, Mike and Joost spent a night in the beautiful village of Appiano (Eppan) along the famous South Tyrolean Wine Road. Surrounded by vineyards, castles and historic houses, this charming village just outside Bolzano is a wonderful place to start an adventure in South Tyrol before entering the high mountains.
I had already met Mike the previous autumn during a hotel-based via ferrata safari around Bolzano. Over several days we gradually increased the difficulty of the routes until we eventually climbed one of the most demanding ferrata in Italy: Via Ferrata Pisetta in the Sarca Valley, an extremely exposed and technical climb.
When Mike returned the following season together with his friend Joost, we planned something special: an eight-day Dolomites safari combining via ferrata and rock climbing.
Hut-to-Hut Adventure in the Rosengarten
For the first five days we explored the spectacular Rosengarten (Catinaccio) group, one of the most iconic mountain ranges of the Dolomites.
The Rosengarten is famous not only for its dramatic towers and climbing routes, but also for one of the most beautiful legends of the Dolomites: the story of King Laurin.
According to the legend, Laurin ruled a magical kingdom hidden among these mountains. On the slopes of the Rosengarten he cultivated a magnificent garden of red roses. When enemies discovered his kingdom and attacked it, Laurin cast a spell on the rose garden so that no one would ever see it again… neither by day nor by night.
But he forgot about twilight.
That is why at sunset the pale limestone of the Rosengarten suddenly glows in deep shades of red and pink, a phenomenon known as Enrosadira, when the mountains seem to turn into the legendary rose garden once again. The story is a bit longer… we can talk about it at the table of the Rifugio in your next safari!
Day 1 – Roda di Vael and Masaré
Our adventure began with two beautiful ferrata routes: Roda di Vael and Masaré, both following dramatic limestone ridges with wide panoramas across the Dolomites.
At the end of the day we reached Rifugio Fronza, perfectly located beneath the impressive walls of the Rosengarten.
There we celebrated the first day of the trip with one of the refuge’s famous homemade cakes. Sitting on the terrace we enjoyed an incredible panorama over the green alpine meadows of Val d’Ega. In the distance we could see the silhouettes of the Ortles–Cevedale and Adamello–Presanella groups, and even the mountains along the Austrian border.
A perfect end to the first day of the safari.
Day 2 – Via Ferrata Santner and the Vajolet Towers
The next morning we climbed towards the famous Vajolet Towers.
Before reaching our climbing objective we first followed the beautiful Via Ferrata Santner, a route that runs through a narrow and dramatic gully carved deep inside the mountain, surrounded by vertical limestone walls and towering spires. Climbing there almost feels like moving through the hidden corridors of the Rosengarten.
Later in the day we climbed the Stabeler Tower, one of the most classic and enjoyable climbs in the area. The route is graded UIAA III (around 5.3 in the Yosemite Decimal System), making it a perfect introduction to Dolomite rock climbing for beginners or a perfect warm up for climbers with some previous experience. The climbing is never too difficult but very scenic, and it can even be climbed wearing approach shoes.
The summit of the tower is incredibly small, just enough space for a few people to stand, and the descent is made through spectacular vertical rappels straight down into the void… a real Dolomites experience!
That evening we stayed at Rifugio Re Alberto, located in the breathtaking Gartl basin and surrounded by the iconic towers of the Vajolet group. The hut is extremely welcoming and beautifully managed by Valeria, who creates a warm and relaxed atmosphere for climbers and hikers. The cuisine is excellent, and watching the sunset from the terrace, surrounded by the towers of the Rosengarten, is simply unforgettable!
Day 3 – The Rosengarten Summit
The following morning we took our time before starting the climb. It was still quite cold early in the day, and the normal route to the summit of Rosengarten begins in a narrow grey limestone gully just about twenty minutes’ walk from the refuge — a beautiful line, but one that stays in the shade for most of the morning.
We started climbing under a sky filled with clouds, but without losing our smiles. The route begins with the first five short pitches, leading up the gully on excellent grey Dolomite rock until reaching the crest of the mountain. From there we continued moving together on a short rope along the ridge until reaching the summit cross.
For me, it is one of the most beautiful summits in the entire Rosengarten — and definitely one of my personal favourites.
After the climb we descended with several rappels and stopped again at Rifugio Re Alberto for lunch before continuing our journey across the mountains.
Later in the afternoon we descended to Rifugio Vajolet, a large and well-organized refuge that can sometimes be quite lively, but always efficiently run. Luckily we had our own small private room, which allowed us to relax and recover properly before dinner after another fantastic day in the mountains.
Day 4 – Catinaccio d’Antermoia
We woke up to grey skies and light rain. Despite the uncertain weather we decided to attempt Catinaccio d’Antermoia, the highest summit of the Rosengarten group.
We left early in the morning to climb the Via Ferrata Antermoia, aiming to reach the summit before the afternoon thunderstorms arrived. When storms hit these mountains, water quickly pours down the steep rock faces, turning gullies into real waterfalls and sometimes even damaging sections of the surrounding trails. Starting early was definitely the right choice.
Leaving our backpacks at Rifugio Passo Principe, we followed the ferrata that leads to the summit. Technically the route is never particularly difficult, but it is incredibly scenic! The line follows a series of logical ledges across the mountain before reaching the final ridge.
From there, an exceptionally beautiful crest leads all the way to the summit cross, offering breathtaking views across the surrounding Dolomites.
Back at Rifugio Passo Principe we spent the afternoon relaxing while the expected storm finally rolled through the mountains. The refuge itself is a special place. Recently partially renovated, it remains a small and intimate hut, run by a friendly family of mountain guides from Trentino. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and one of its unique features is the à la carte menu, something quite rare in alpine huts. And in the morning, the hut is also famous for serving a truly excellent (and big!) cappuccino, a perfect way to start a day in the mountains.
Day 5 – Via Ferrata Laurenzi
After a giant cappuccino prepared by the hut guardian, we set off towards the Via Ferrata Laurenzi.
Often considered one of the most spectacular ferrata of the Rosengarten, the route follows a long and very exposed ridge beginning near the beautiful Lake of Antermoia and traversing high above the surrounding valleys.
Throughout the climb the panorama is extraordinary: the massive walls of the Sassolungo group, the wide green plateau of Alpe di Siusi, and the elegant silhouette of the Sciliar dominating the horizon.
It is a truly spectacular and airy route, one that perfectly captures the essence of climbing in the Dolomites.
From Rifugio Alpe di Tires we continued our descent through the beautiful Val Ciamin, a wild and enchanting valley that feels far removed from the busier areas of the Dolomites.
It was the perfect way to finish our hut-to-hut traverse across the Rosengarten.
After descending from the mountains Mike and Joost returned to their hotel in Alta Badia for the next stage of the adventure!
Climbing on the Sella Towers
Joost and I climbed the beautiful Delenda Carthago route on the First Sella Tower, a classic 6b sport on perfect Dolomite limestone with a panoramic summit facing the impressive walls of the Sassolungo. The route is a modern sport climb with a maximum grade of 6b French (around 5.10b YDS), although most of the climbing is sustained around 6a (approximately 5.10a YDS). This makes it a very enjoyable and continuous climb on slabs with holes, perfect for climbers who already have some experience and want to enjoy high-quality limestone in one of the most iconic areas of the Dolomites. What else?
Meanwhile Mike enjoyed a self-guided adventure, combining the Forcella Sassolungo via ferrata with the Col Rodella route. Same parking lot…many different activities!!! Who is gonna stop him now?
Via Ferrata Piazzetta
Between the two climbing days we climbed together the famous Via Ferrata Piazzetta, one of the most demanding ferrata in the Dolomites.
We started the day from Passo Pordoi, where the trail begins just above the historic German war cemetery, a quiet and reflective place that marks the beginning of the ascent. From there a steep mountain path climbs steadily up the slope until reaching the impressive vertical walls where the ferrata begins.
From the very first meters the route is steep, physical and sustained, requiring good strength and endurance. The climbing follows the vertical rock of the Sella massif, with long and continuous sections that make the Piazzetta one of the most athletic via ferrata in the Dolomites.
The route eventually reaches the summit plateau of Piz Boè, a spectacular 3000-meter peak in the heart of the Dolomites, with breathtaking views over the surrounding mountain ranges.
The descent follows an equipped trail that leads back towards Passo Pordoi. After many days of climbing and long mountain days, we allowed ourselves a small luxury: taking the spectacular Pordoi cable car down to the pass, saving our knees after such an intense week of adventure!
Climbing Via Lisa in Vallunga - Val Gardena
For the final climbing day strong winds at higher altitude forced us to choose a route at lower elevation.
We climbed Via Lisa on the Ciampanil de Val, a beautiful rock tower located in the stunning Vallunga valley, just above Selva di Val Gardena. The tower sits in a sunny and protected position between the higher mountains of the area, making it a perfect objective for windy summer days or for warm climbing during the shoulder seasons.
The route, opened by the Rabanser brothers, has become a true classic of the valley. It follows steep and elegant limestone on the south face of the tower, offering sustained and enjoyable climbing.
The difficulty reaches around 6b French (about 5.10b YDS), with several sections consistently around 6a (around 5.10a YDS). The climbing is vertical and quite physical in places, including a beautiful crack section halfway up the route that requires good technique and determination.
Joost climbed extremely well and managed to free almost the entire route. There was only one short rest before continuing all the way to the anchor and finishing the climb with a big smile! A fantastic way to finish the adventure!
After the climb we met again with Mike and enjoyed a well-deserved local lunch together, celebrating the end of eight unforgettable days of climbing and via ferrata in the Dolomites.
Thanks guys for the great adventure, the laughs and for trusting me as your guide. Until next time… now I’ll let you finally return home to your wives! ;)
Experience a Similar Adventure in the Dolomites
The adventure with Mike and Joost combined two of the most beautiful experiences the Dolomites can offer: a hut-to-hut via ferrata (& rock climbing) journey through the Rosengarten and a couple of days of classic rock climbing on the legendary towers of the Dolomites.
If you would like to experience something similar, you can explore these programs:
Rosengarten Via Ferrata Safari
A multi-day hut-to-hut adventure across the spectacular Rosengarten (Catinaccio) group, combining classic via ferrata routes, dramatic ridges and unforgettable mountain huts.
King Laurin Climbing Traverse
A multi-day hut-to-hut adventure across the Rosengarten (Catinaccio) combining via ferrata and some of the best rock climbing routes in the Dolomites, for every level, from beginners to experts.
Hotel-Based Dolomites Climbing Safari
A climbing adventure based in comfortable hotels, exploring some of the most beautiful multi-pitch routes in the Dolomites, with flexible daily objectives depending on weather and conditions.
Both programs can be adapted depending on experience, weather conditions and personal preferences.
