KING OF THE DOLOMITES TRAVERSE

Depending on the time of your arrival, a visit to the Oetzi Archaeological Museum, a simple leisure walk in the city center of Bolzano or some warm up sport climbing at the local climbing gym will be possible! 

You will have a welcome briefing before dinner with your guide, for an equipment double-check and a specific illustration of the program for the upcoming climbing hut-to-hut days!

Accommodation: Hotel in Bolzano

This is your warm-up day, featuring a 3-pitch multipitch climb, a 60-meter rappel, and one of the most scenic via ferrata routes in the Dolomites.

You will start with a transfer from Bolzano to Carezza, famous for its lake nestled in the forest at the foot of the Latemar, with incredible colors—perfect for a quick photo stop! From there, you’ll take the Paolina chairlift and step into the world of the Catinaccio/Rosengarten (Italian and German names). After about 1.5 hours of hiking, you will reach the base of the Spigolo Sud route on Torre Finestra (Window Tower).

Your guide will provide full instructions on roped multipitch techniques, preparing you for your first approach to climbing in the Dolomites. The route itself is unforgettable: a striking piece of rock with its characteristic hole just below the summit. At the end, you’ll rappel straight through the hole into the void—an experience packed with pure Dolomite flavor!

After the multipitch, the adventure continues with a traverse along the Roda di Vael via ferrata, leading to its summit. From here, enjoy a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of the Dolomites and Alps, and take a well-earned break for a sandwich. The day concludes with a 1–1.5 hour walk to Fronza Refuge, an exceptional spot at the base of the Catinaccio peak, perfect for witnessing a magical sunset before a delicious traditional dinner.

Accommodation: Rifugio of the Dolomites

After breakfast, you will start the Santner via ferrata, leading directly to the Gartl cirque at the base of the Vajolet Towers, right by the Re Alberto Hut. Stepping into this iconic area is already an adventure, with the towers rising dramatically around you.

With your guide, you will choose which of the three towers to climb. All routes are vertical, exposed, and traditionally protected, with resin-bonded belays at the anchors. Reaching the sharp summits gives a real sense of achievement and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Dolomites.

Main routes:

1. Piaz Corner, Delago Tower, 2790 m (IV+) – A legendary route traversing the exposed edge of the Delago Tower over about 100 meters of perfect rock. First climbed in 1911, it remains one of the most famous and thrilling climbs in the Dolomites.

2. Stabeler Tower, 2805 m (III+) – Ideal even for beginners, this route rewards you with a variety of pitches and airy rappels, offering a real taste of classic Dolomite climbing. Another exciting option is the Diedro Fehrmann (IV+/V).

3. Winkler Tower, 2800 m (V) – First climbed solo in 1887 by 17-year-old Winkler, this route combines traverses, chimneys, slabs, cracks, and dihedrals, with unparalleled views over the Vajolet Valley.

The descent is done by abseil, with around four rappels, bringing you back to the welcoming Re Alberto Hut, opened in 1929. Here you can relax, enjoy a traditional homemade dinner, and spend the night at 2621 meters, surrounded by the majestic peaks of King Laurin—a truly magical setting.

Accommodation: Rifugio of the Dolomites

This third day is dedicated to climbing the Catinaccio peak!

With a 20-minute hike from the Refuge we will reach the start of the route. The ascent alternates a first part of 4-pitch climbing with a second part of short rope progression on an exciting and exposed ridge to reach the summit cross of the second highest peak of the Catinaccio group! The descent is done on the ascent route, with some final rappels. It is a satisfying, moderately long climb, perfect for a third day! 

Once back at the Re Alberto Refuge, only after a well-deserved lunch and relaxation will we descend along the protected trail to reach the Vajolet Refuge (at 2243m), nestled since 1897 among the peaks of the valley of the same name in Trentino and a foothold for an innumerable series of mountaineering and hiking climbs! Here you will be able to appreciate an incredible view of the immense and fascinating east face of the Catinaccio, a peak you climbed just today by ascending from the other side! 

Accommodation: Rifugio of the Dolomites

Today’s highlight could be the Fedele Route on Punta Emma another route opened in the first half of the 1900s, specifically in July 1929 by Fedele Bernard and G. Masè Dari: a route on the rocky structure above the Vajolet refuge, which you will reach in 30 min of walking. 

A little curiosity about the name of the tower: punta Emma is dedicated to Emma Della Giacoma, the “dishwasher” of the Re Alberto refuge (where you slept two days ago!) who had opened with Tita Piaz the first route on this face in 1899! The Dolomites are the cradle of climbing history, yes or no?

Route details:

The route has a length of 8 pitches, with a maximum difficulty reaching in two pitches V-, generally constant around IV+. It offers very good rock climbing that is a taste of all the styles of the Dolomites between dihedrals, slabs, cracks and chimneys! Protections are traditional, but there are bolts at some belays.   The top of the tower will give you a view of some peaks you may have gotten to know by now, and some you have already climbed! From the summit the descent  involves a couple of rappels to reach the protected path taken yesterday that descends from the Re Alberto hut to the Vajolet hut. Once at the Refuge we can take a lunch break before before setting out on an approximately 1h hike to reach our destination for today: the Rifugio Principe at the foot of the Antermoia,  the highest peak in the group! 

Accommodation: Rifugio of the Dolomites

On the last day of your Catinaccio traverse tour, we offer a break from long rock routes, and an ascent of the Antermoia via ferrata, so that we don't miss the climb to the real highest peak of the Catinaccio group, at 3002 m above sea level! You put on your harnesses and gear even before you leave the Principe Hut: the via ferrata starts just a few minutes' hiking from the hut! It consists of the actual traverse from west to east of this peak, which we will reach with a last section of exciting and panoramic ridge! From the summit and along the descent we will be able to appreciate the view of Lake Antermoia, a glacial lake of incredible colors, set among the rocky mountains. 

At the end of the via ferrata you will retrace your descent down the Vajolet Valley to Rifugio Gardeccia, where you will take the Sentiero delle Leggende path to the top station of the Catinaccio cable car, which leads to Vigo, a small town in the Fassa Valley. Here you will take the comfortable bus that in about 30 min takes you to Carezza, the starting point of your unforgettable adventure in the climbing history of the Dolomites!

Accommodation: Hotel in Bolzano

Breakfast and departure on your own (private transfert is possible on request).